On an exciting week, where ‘normal’ sized models strutted their stuff alongside size zero models on the catwalk at the Mark Fast Show, the Sykes collection was presented on models up to the age of 70 (who looked fabulous), and celebrities dressed up like Flintstones characters, my head was in quite a spin!
London Fashion Week opened with a superb collection by Paul Costelloe, who married soft, shiny floral fabrics with puffball skirts. Dresses and coats in sugar and candy pinks, creams and browns, with a preppy theme running through the whole collection for both men and women. Some dresses were adorned with large bows, and skirts structured into angular pleats, which barely moved as the models walked down the runway.
Equally impressive was the Caroline Charles Show which was attended by Joan Collins, and the Mayor of London, Boris Johnson, for whom the press literally went wild. Her collection had a nautical theme and consisted of blue, white and red stripes in jersey tops, in various combinations with rolled up cotton trousers and red belts. Elsewhere, cream and brown soft dresses and coats in silks and suedes, and the most beautiful array of costumes and bikinis with various ‘cover-ups’ from stunning shirt-coats, to floral chiffon kaftans. In short, everything one would need to pack for a holiday on a yacht in an exotic location. It was an extremely wearable collection, and this is probably the reason why Caroline Charles has a huge, loyal following. The collection culminated in a stunning bridal wear collection with the most exquisite beading, floral garlands and parasols, perfect for a summer wedding.
The ‘fairy tale’ collection at Kinder Agguggini was mesmerising,with bold, bright colours, lace and spots, juxtaposed with stripes and clashing colourful prints in polka dots on layered skirts. Some outfits were accessorised with oversized animal print hats, and tweed jackets in various colours. Hair was rolled into very large ringlets. The collection was inspired by the Alice in Wonderland fairytale.
Equally memorable was the ‘Flintstone’ inspired collection by Jeremy Scott, modelled by Pixie Geldof, Daisy Lowe, and LibertyRoss, amongst many other models. Garments ranged from prom dresses, to swimsuits and bikinis with stone prints or scalloped edges and tall brightly coloured wigs to look like cavewomen. Jeremy has an extensive following of celebrities and A-listers, and is undoubtedly trying to prove that fashion can be fun.
Eley Kishimoto mixed cheesecloth with bold stripes, either as separates (shorts or skirts and cropped tops) with contrasting accessories or on textured oversized dresses. A wide-legged beige coloured jumpsuit with white ‘lightning’ shaped stripes was a must have, proving that for Spring/Summer 2010, anything goes (together).
Osman’s flawless collection was completely white, with tiny touches of gold throughout. Structured shift dresses and coats with full skirts, and printed gold panels. Full length dresses which fitted like a glove, short dresses with cut away sleeves and gold piping or lace. Elsewhere, cigarette pants were teamed with short jackets. The models wore sleek pony tails, and gold sculptured shoes,with Ray Bans. What better way to showcase his razor sharp tailoring than with an ‘all-white’ collection under very strong spot lights? Genius!
At Jaeger, tailoring was less structured than before, with the arrival of Stuart Stockdale, Jaeger’s new design director, who took inspiration from Jaeger’s rich archive and the photography of Guy Bourdin. He produced an eye catching and modern collection,which had a piece for everyone. Garments were heavily embellished throughout, including jackets and dresses, exquisitely adorned with gold sequins, and even harem pants made from gold lame. A staple piece for Spring/Summer 2010 will undoubtedly be the black and white ‘coatigan’, which looked sophisticated, yet comfortable.
Other highlights of the week included the return of Matthew Williamson, with his feminine, futuristic collection, and also, Burberry came back to London Fashion Week. Chief Designer Christoper Bailey had his own interpretation of the classic brand, which included belted mini trenches (some made with silver sequins), chiffon dresses and draped chiffon skirts, and handbags made from the classic check. With Victoria Beckham,Gwyneth Paltrow, Emma Watson and Frieda Pinto in the front row,there were more than a few happy onlookers.
It also became apparent that high heels may be a thing of the past, too (for the moment at least), in favour of flats. Twenty8Twelve (the Miller sisters) showed pretty laced-up sandals, Vivenne Westwood’s models wore loafers and patent shoes, and all about the BFC tent,and Somerset House in general, many people were wearing flats. Even Anna Wintour (Editor in Chief of U.S. Vogue) had been spotted wearing a pair of flats to an event in New York recently, and if it’s ok by her, I think we should all breathe a huge sigh of relief and let our feet have a rest. (At least until next season, anyway!)
Written by Amanda Waters.
Photography – Fashion Show Images
(As Published in Aspect County Magazine).