Runway Photography by Yannis Vlamos
Backstage Photography by Shu-Wei Huang
Following the success of Busardi’s London Fashion Week debut last season, the red carpet prêt-à-couture label takes over a Georgian mansion in Mayfair to set the tone for its highly anticipated runway collection ‘Air’.
Inspired by the incredibly diverse landscapes and micro environments of
South America, the Spring/Summer 2015 collection takes us on a journey with an archetypal Busardi woman, strong and beautiful as she soars through the glacier-hewn fields of Patagonia, past the smoking plunge pools of the Iguazu Falls and into the golden pink sand deserts of Argentina.
Honing in on the ethereal beauty that the brand is renowned for, a splendour of exquisitely crafted gowns play with layering and transparency to create new codes of modern femininity. Pulling on a rich tapestry of references, models are personified into resplendent eagles covered in an armour of accessories: ear cuffs, bracelets and necklaces moulded in solid silver and covered with crystals and pearls – challenging the traditional notions of eveningwear. The attachment of soft ostrich feathers on cocktail dresses, evening gowns and jackets nods to exquisite birds in flight, while lace-formed adornments command a serene glacial allusion.
Layered with more philosophical implications, the collection sees the element of oxygen take centre stage – air sustains all life but the power of air can freeze great swathes of water and waterfalls into icebergs. Billowing silhouettes glide down the catwalk, while more structured pieces are adorned
with feathers that gently float through the air as the models drift down the runway. The entire collection of luxurious gowns and dresses has a carefree, laissez-faire mood, enhanced by Busardi’s signature use of embroidery, lace and appliqué.
Not comprising on luxe detailing, a profusion of floating hemlines and floor skimming skirts maintain the red carpet grandeur. However, nothing encapsulates the mood quite like the finale piece – a queen of the birds, adorned with hundreds of grey ostrich feathers layered around the shoulders of a trademark cape. Heavily encrusted ear cuffs frame the model’s face, while delicate hand embroidered appliqué finely decorates the waist of a silk dress; her silver tulle skirt trails the runway, mirroring the tail of a great bird as she soars through the Patagonian air.
Colours: Light blue, beige, powder blue, lilac, aqua, dusky pink, gold, baby blue, laurel green, sky blue, silver, taupe, orange, rose, pink, purple, turquoise, nude, white, cream, grey blue and silver.
Fabrics: Ostrich feathers, lace, chiffon, taffeta, duchess satin, silk jacquard, shantung, silk, organza, crepe satin, organza, tulle, cloque and wool.
Co-founded in 2009 by Busardi Muntarbhorn and Tuck Muntarbhorn, Busardi is a prêt-à-couture label based in Bangkok. Prior to launching Busardi, Muntarbhorn was creative director and head designer at family-owned Yoswadee, Thailand’s oldest surviving fashion house. Grounded in couture roots, the collections is designed, produced and manufactured in the heart of Thailand.
Pin Israngkun for Busardi
Annabel Callum for AOFM Pro
Keiichiro Hirano using L’Oréal , assisted by AOFM Pro
Yannis Vlamos from Indigital Italia
With thanks to:
The staff at Dartmouth House, Courtney Blackman, Laura McCluskey, Harriet Bowe, Grace Redwood, Lucy Goodman, Olivia Lewis, Chris Close, Connie Lewis, Daisy Rogers, Fluer-Louise O’Sullivan, Hayley Appleford, Maartje Lettinck, Veronica Ochoa, Georgina Harwood, Isobel Engall, Jennette Co, Kerrie Newton,
Megan Nicholls, Jennifer Ross, Max Seward, Emma Camilleri and Anastasia Alberti