‘Tailors of the Unexpected’ - A/W 2014
Chester Barrie moves into the world of the unexpected with its Autumn/Winter ‘14 collection, launched as part of London Collections: Men.
With a reputation for creating beautiful formalwear, from this season onwards the brand will be turning its tailor’s eye to a broader product range, extending the style aesthetic to include more relaxed pieces, such as knitwear, casual outwear and trousers. But all the while, it is maintaining its commitment to quality and luxury.
Influences for the season include military menswear and riding clothing, but strongest of all is a Rat Pack theme, which has inspired this season’s presentation at London Collections: Men.
The Rat Pack – Frank Sinatra, Dean Martin, Sammy Davis Jnr, Peter Lawford and Joey Bishop – was renowned for their sharp dressing, both on and off screen. Their most iconic movie being Ocean’s Eleven.
The most eye-catching element of the collection is a range of eveningwear in lush cotton/cashmere/silk velvet and wool/mohair with bold shawl collars and turn-back cuffs. But it is the trouser range which is the most innovative. A five-pocket jean style has been re-created in tailoring cloths, while flat fronted trousers feature a subtle jetted half-frog mouth pocket, giving them a much cleaner shape.
Also of note are quilted jackets and gilets in rain proofed wool flannel and a golf jacket realised in grey wool.
On a more formal level, jackets in pure cashmere have a drape and handle that provides a strong element of luxury. While suits in a lush flannel bring extra depth to the collection – stand out coats include a Pea Coat and a Change Coat designed to be worn without a jacket.
Highlight tones of teal and winter berries bring life to a winter palette of charcoal, camel slate and rich navy.