MARNI – MILAN MENS – SPRING/SUMMER 2015
Vibrant energy. A loose, natural attitude: upbeat, neat, fast. The Marni Men collection for s/s 15 continues taking elements from different worlds – sport, utility, tailoring – dissecting and assembling them in a graphic yet spontaneous language. It builds a wardrobe suited to the needs and demands of the contemporary urban wanderer. Forms have the bold assertiveness and the raw perfection of brutalist architecture; suiting and sports merge and morph, seamlessly, creating utilitarian pieces of clothing. The accent on precision puts the focus on texture and color, defining a balance that is slightly askew, dynamic.
The silhouette is loose yet controlled, with an airy sense of firmness. Light wool suits are worn under oversized dusters, rolled sleeves and contrasting nuances creating a play of juxtapositions. Reversible sports blazers paired with shorts match function with ease. The iconic elements of the masculine wardrobe are distilled to their essence and then remixed with a geometric sensibility that is quintessentially Marni. The zip-up blouson, the bomber jacket, the collarless shirt-jacket, the short-sleeved shirt are addends of layerings and permutations, the sum of elements highlighted by the bold color combination. Suits have compact jackets and long lean trousers. Prints recur as an assertive element on bonded sweatshirts, shirts and trousers both highlighting and deconstructing the architectural precision of the cuts. Inside-out construction have nonchalance.
The dense color palette is rich in unexpected mixtures: tones of inky blue, deep green, grey, black and beige are accented with dashes of deep red, pale yellow, rust. Prints have a gestural quality: scribbles, geometries, stripes and inky flowers. Fabrics are light and airy, yet firm: suiting wools, bonded jersey, parachute cotton.
The graphic tone of the collection carries on in the accessories. Functional card and phone cases are worn around the neck adding another element of color and shape. Marni’s classic backpack is reimagined with another colorful play. Sandals with bold color and material mixes are a light-hearted addition to the silhouette. Canvas sneakers have rubber toe caps sliced into graphic bands.