The new Les Hommes Fall Winter 2014/15 Collection explores history of menswear from an unusual point of view. The creative directors of the brand, Tom Notte and Bart Vandebosch, envisioned a very coherent collection, although inspired by diametrically distant realities. Thus tailoring tradition is mixed with street style for a luxury version of contemporary elegance.
The two designers take possession of urban wear such as T-shirts, sweatshirts and bombers reinterpreting and transforming them into elements of refined rigour according to their style code.
The rarefied atmosphere of an imaginary hall of unique tailoring is source of inspiration for the classic silhouettes and the traditional fabrics -tweed, Harris tweed, herringbone Prince of Wales- mixed and matched with impeccable taste.
Prints and embroideries evoke three different themes: waves, cranes, flowers and plum trees. All patterns are glimpsed through Shoji screens that could decorate an antique atelier but are, instead, brought down to their essence. Designs are serially reproduced to be transformed into graphic signs. Underlying romanticism evolves towards a sober and assertively masculine form.
The nearly mathematical construction of tailoring is reinforced by the juxtaposition of different materials. Heavier fabrics, habitually employed for coats, are here used for suits, while shirts feature lighter textiles as organza.
Consistently the mix of precious materials as astrakhan, alpaca, merino wool and leather combine for a subtly evoking effect. This game of contrasts – iconic feature of the style of Les Hommes – translates into a tension of matter that finds its ideal expression in a slender, modern and aristocratic figure.
Black and grey are the predominant shades that even out and offer depth to the collection. Highlights are provided by hints of camel and by the accessories, epitomized by a brilliant avant-garde version of men’s jewellery in the metallic tie knot .
Besides maxi scarfs and foulards wore around the shoulders, accessories comprise of an accurate selection of essential pieces. Classic yet neat lace ups and geometric handbags and envelope bags.
Tom Notte and Bart Vandebosch gave life to a brand created for modern gentlemen hanging in the balance between past and future and therefore extremely contemporary.