NOBI TALAI

Again drawing inspiration at the crossroads between Occident and Orient, Berlin-based and Tehran-born designer Nobieh Talaei embarks on a celebratory journey for spring/summer 2018.
The collections of Nobi Talai tell stories of modern nomads, with the narrative taking a surprisingly dazzling turn in NT.05. Collaborating with Swarovski, over 18,000 crystals have been hand-embroidered onto garments that swing from urbane to overtly spectacular – the latter also calling to mind traditional Persian bridal processions where the bride is adorned with all she holds precious. Further bridging the designer’s two native cultures, one finds handwoven ‘Termeh’ paisleys from Iran juxtaposed with complex constructions in European tulle and organza. Grounding the looks: Iran’s traditional flat, handwoven slippers or ‘Giveh.’
There is a strong modernist aspect as well. The designer was particularly drawn to the slashed canvases of Lucio Fontana, the striated textures of Piero Manzoni, the personal geometries of Jan Schoonhoven and Paolo Scheggi’s circular paintings as she worked to inject a new dimensional element into the collection. Lines, circles and squares not only influence the pattern-making and shape of Nobi Talai this season, but now appear on the surface in geometrically patterned textiles or go 3d via all manner of pleats and folds, even on leather.
Fabrics range from silk crepe de chine, organza, tulle and satin to fine cotton, ultra light weight wool, and leather, now perforated in a circular pattern. The palette stars black and white, navy, beige and delicate pastels for fashion that, like Nobi Talai’s modern nomads, goes its own way. Free in spirit and open to the world.