Nicole Farhi


Women’s Show  Autumn/Winter 2012

The Secession Movement in Vienna and French Art Nouveau set the scene.  Gustav Klimt’s opulent canvases and lavish cascades of colour resound throughout the Nicole Farhi A/W 2012 collection.

Innovative fabrics are key;  compressed felt, broken chintzed wool, laminated jacquards, bonded needle punched wools and technical jerseys bring structure and movement to the collection.

Rich tones of chartreuse, copper, silver and moss counterbalance the austere shades of grey while pure white sharpens the palette.  Graphic shaped sequins create a multifaceted mosaic effect on dresses and skirts made of softer contrasting fabrics.  A whiplash of linear silver strips accentuate the sharp line of the show opening dress.

Architectural influences of the era echo in a thick sandwich felt coat with its extreme folding form whil column-like structure is seen in a sleeveless long gilet.

There are influences also from menswear, with an explosion of 3D plastic shard covered skirts shown with clean, masculine sweaters.  A menswear inspired overcoat is armoured in copper strips, tailoring is oversized, poplin shirts have starched detachable shirt collars.

Prominent flashes of polished copper and steel appear throughout accessories – on bracelets with their slick exaggerated curved buckles, wedges with heels of patent colour and matching latticework-inspired necklaces.

The 30th Anniversary Show was set in the austere Victorian Gothic splendour of The Royal Courts of Justice.