MARNI MEN’S F/W 2014-2015
A far-ranging foray into masculine iconographies and the way they are expressed through clothes. Elements and obsessions running from sport to classic, workwear to tailoring, utility to luxury, army to office are taken apart, dissected and re-arranged in a mix that is quintessentially Marni: dry yet soulful, precise with a certain carelessness, graphic. The result is a comprehensive wardrobe that covers the needs and demands of daily life using what is known and familiar in an off-kilter kind of way. Cohesion comes through a loose sense of volume, deceptive textures, fur used as an accent.
The pillars of the masculine repertoire are distilled to their essence in a quest for soft classicism that keeps a slightly subcultural tingle: the tailored suit, slim and crisp, halfway between urban staple and work uniform; the crombie coat, seen in a textural vein; the trench coat, reduced to a blueprint; the bomber and the parka, occasionally mor