CATWALK SHOW AND DETAIL
Palais de Tokyo, Wednesday 5th March 2014.
“A military winter with a bohemian feel” - Cecilia Bönström, Zadig & Voltaire Creative Director.
Inspired by protection and empowerment, Cecilia Bönström’s Fall/Winter 2014 Zadig & Voltaire collection begins with a military starting point.“The collection has this tomboy attitude that gives the wearer a kind of confidence. When you wear these clothes you feel powerful,” she explains.
Giving traditional army uniform motifs a modern spin, Bönström reimagines parka jackets in new proportions, with oversized fur collars or in faux-fur finishes. Military-style sweaters, meanwhile, are reinterpreted as patchwork knits and army stripes feature on jackets. A dichotomy between strength and romance, masculinity and femininity is at the heart of the collection. Shots of pink and orange pop against the moody, khaki palette, while utilitarian jackets are nonchalantly thrown over delicate vintage style lace pieces, languid trousers and silk shirts, and mini dresses. Skinny-fit overalls are worn contrasted with a transparent mesh top. Hoods and pockets establish the refreshing practicality central to the collection. “The Zadig & Voltaire woman wants to look cool and feel comfortable this winter,” explains Bönström.
Combining rock-and-roll attitude with a carefree elegance, the FW14 collection also takes its cue from Parisian style. Tough-luxe leather pieces – such as skirts with perfecto detailing, track pants, leggings and the signature Lily biker jacket, which this season is distressed and printed – punctuate the collection. Breton striped merino knits are woven to include holes, creating the effect of having been worn and loved for years and reaffirming the house’s reputation for innovative knitwear. Practical pieces meanwhile are given a luxe, party-appropriate spin, such as the house’s emblematic dungarees, which return for FW14 embellished with multi-coloured sequins. The collection’s only print, a gutsy, graphic floral, is inspired by an Andy Warhol print.
Zadig & Voltaire’s tailoring know-how is this season shown off on outerwear. Coats have sharp silhouettes and hit below the knee; shoulders are angular and sleeves are flared. Standout pieces include a fuzzy faux-fur navy coat and a studded boiled wool coat. Oversized, masculine blazers take their cue from pieces in the men’s collection.
Bönström rounds off the collection on a light note with a series of winter white looks. Chunky knits and fringed shawls hint at the bohemian spirit pulsing through the collection, and contrast with silver sequins and delicate, hand embroidered crepe georgette pieces including a wistfully romantic full-length dress that closes the show.
For accessories the much-loved Zadig & Voltaire army boots are reimagined for the new season with a 10cm heel and silver toecap. Two new bags are introduced: the structured, multi-zipper Camera bag and the Skinny Love Extra Small in distressed, quilted leather with a silver chain strap – a rock spin on a ladylike handbag. Skinny studded belts are worn wrapped around twice. Oversized, fringed shawls and faux-fur scarves are essential for layering. Merino mittens and beanie hats complete a grungy, tomboyish attitude; slouchy, they are designed to be worn low on the head.
FRONT ROW V.I.P. ATTENDEES