We have pleasure in bringing you the first looks from the Jil Sander show…
AUTUMN/WINTER 2014 COLLECTION
Sense of structure, surface movement, color as architectural quality. Tailoring applied to every aspect of the design of the wardrobe. The Fall/Winter 2014 Jil Sander collection conveys subtle electricity. The friction between purity of form and tactility of matter is the defining element solved in a synthesis that is both sophisticated and sensual. The trademarks of the Jil Sander man, a forward-looking citizen of the world, persist yet are renewed.
The eye is stimulated by textures that beg the wearer to touch, and investigate each piece by hand. What you see is not necessarily what you get: embossed bubbles run rhythmically over short coats and jackets; the intricate motifs of tweed, shrunken or dilated until they lose trace of their origin, turn into prints on shirts, abstract explosions on anoraks and coats, stitched on thick knits; chintz effects give a shiny quality to flannels to resemble wet asphalt, mimicking leather outerwear pieces that mix sartorial know-how with the functionalism of sportswear. Metallic
shimmering textures react to light with a mercury-like quality.
The silhouette is neat: a vertical mark, starting from the natural shoulder. Coats and boxy jackets are worn with high-waisted tapered trousers. They are paired with crew-neck knits that suggest the unwilling seduction of underwear left exposed. Parkas have generous but controlled volumes; rid of sleeves, they become an urban layering addition.
Knits and blousons sport ergonomic constructions. Patch pockets recur as tailoring gestures.
The color palette is dense and moody: shades of purple, teal, dark green, anthracite and metropolitan black, then light or dark grey and neutral shades broken by prints and brushed effects. Materials are sturdy and dry to the hand: mohair, brushed wool, treated flannel. A sense of chromatic consistency runs through the outfits, expressing clarity and distinctiveness.
Accessories punctuate the image with clear and assertive signs: lace-ups and boots with high lacquered soles, buckle-less belts closed by snaps. Bags combine different worlds using color as a tactile element: oversized duffels with detachable pouches, business briefcases and deconstructed clutches.