Photography by Monica FEUDI
Video by Videopolis/Yohji Yamamoto Inc
Yohji Yamamoto Homme A/W 2012-13
Those men in the street who pace up and down the path drawn by Yohji Yamamoto this season might be artists.
Mastering his historical references, the designer imagines them as descended from the Victorian era, at a time when every gentleman would not go out with anything but a three-piece suit. Thus, they are wearing with an aristocratic ease an impeccable flannel or tartan suit with new proportions –cropped pants, more structured jackets, punctual asymmetries, variation on collars. In the evening, jackets become tailcoats, a Yamamoto classic that our gentleman feels free to turn offbeat. With an accurate sense of humour, he puts a bumpy top hat on his daily suit, he accessorizes it with a new generation floppy necktie or a tie winded into his collar or tucked in his pants, or he allows himself to awake it with colourful leather shoes.
Sometimes this fancy and dishevelled gentleman happens to be weary of artifice and decides to wear simple but chic silk pyjamas.
To go out in the harsh winter, he has to layer, by slipping into a coat that he prefers thick or even coarse: here, it is an overcoat with fur at elbows and hood; there it becomes a shawl or a blanket with colour stitches skilfully winded around the body; it also extends the homewear metaphor by becoming a luxurious and ducal morning coat.
The look imagined by Mr Yamamoto this season could also be more serious, but always very elegant, when it leans towards militaristic style: wool double-lapel or double-breasted jackets with gold buttons, or “Y” emblems appliqués on arms or breast.
Shades are muted but not hidden: black and white, Yohji Yamamoto’s reference colour palette, still take up the show but get caught up with autumn tones –khaki, brown, navy, burgundy- or hints of stronger colours -red on pyjamas, green, purple or pink on shoes, ties or stitches.
When at a crossroads, this ethereal gentleman who loves contrasts hesitates, keeps his eyes open; he tries to find his way, but he never gets lost.
For all shopping requests or collection visuals please contact Maya Hamel, email@example.com.
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