RUNWAY
ATMOSPHERE
TRUSSARDI MEN’S COLLECTION SPRING/SUMMER 2017
Characters in search of an author: this could define modern men. In terms of style and clothing, they seem broken in two: on the borderline between past and present, nostalgia and technology, traditional and genderless roles.
With the new Trussardi Uomo menswear collection for Spring/Summer 2017, Gaia Trussardi wants to present this modern contradiction and oxymoron of our times.
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First, the installation: in the loggia of the quadriporticus of Palazzo Brera, several actors chosen through street casting incarnate and reflect modern masculine archetypes. It is a kaleidoscope of clichés and roles, a game of mirrors in which the male identity is revealed, analyzed, mocked and humanized, as if on a Pirandellian stage.
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The collection has the same intentions of the installation. The point of departure is the art of Ligabue and Vincent Van Gogh, especially the agitated lines and bold strokes they used to portray the clothes of the male figures in their paintings. Those textured surfaces – almost like rippling waves – appear on the classic fabrics of traditional menswear that break apart in a movement that shatters convention and geometric shapes.
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Even the silhouette is split in half. On top is a jacket and vest; on the bottom are jogging pants. It epitomizes the oxymoron of the modern man’s suit: institution and rebellion, order and chaos, business and leisure.
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Fabrics push the accelerator of contradiction: neoprene and raw linen together with denim and suede contrast and blend to create a new balance, always following unconventional paths. The same is true for colors: nuances mix
together without real boundaries and find a more modern harmony in their chaotic union.
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Personality and the importance of self-affirmation are at the basis of the new cult of masculinity. In a moment in which roles are redefined, the Trussardi collection focuses on the significance of authoritative distinction. Prints of classical busts with strokes of primary colors stand out like paintings-à-portér. Python leather returns as a protagonist of a dandyism that does not want to surprise, but opens new paths of expression in personal elegance.