The narration is introspective: here, reality is a product of the imagination. Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli have envisioned a nocturnal, reflective mood for the Autumn/Winter 2012/13 Haute Couture collection of Valentino. Luxury has been transformed into a splendid story…..
(Scroll down to read full description of this beautiful collection in English, French and Italian)
“Blue defines the mental landscape: profound and dense – a synonym of possibility and creative thought – it is the polar opposite of vibrant red and far from impenetrable black. The concept of beauty as a maximum expression of humanity pervades the clothes. Convinced that the evolution of the Maison must come from within, Maria Grazia Churi and Pierpaolo Piccioli have created a collection that uses the most classic materials, techniques and iconography yet is farthest from typical canons of style. The spirit of time enters the atelier and is condensed into an effortless, essential line. Lightness and density, dazzling splendor and subtle embellishment create a contrast in which opposites blend.
Imagination molds the material. Shapes seem to magically form around the body, almost as if the material is naturally following; like an imaginary design which has never been touched before by scissors. Silhouettes are the quintessence of simplicity. We are immediately drawn in by this subtle and never ostentatious virtuosity that lets us dream of new paths, different perspectives, and unique stories. The pieces in this collection are a part of a composite, a multiform concept: impalpable dresses and dramatic ball gowns, detailed capes and sleek dresses. Slim-fit trousers and adamantine blouses. The line creates movement, and longer silhouettes elongate the figure. The chiffon intarsia dress is a liquid cascade that solidifies for an instant around the waist and then continues to flow down. The tuxedo dissolves into an endless cape worn with a skirt. The stylistic approach includes contrasts. Short dresses in brocade – the epitome of grace – make a bold statement with their architectural silhouettes. Meanwhile, embroidery creates textured colour and explores ancient symbols. As if the result of some magical alchemic process, heavier materials such as brocade, velvet, chiffon, and double cashmere become as light and ephemeral as pure thought. Intense, mysterious midnight blue is combined with black and interrupted with brocade nuances of pink, yellow and red.
The collection celebrates traditional craftsmanship as a form of knowledge and a search for new heights that is never an escape because only the mind, guiding the hand, creates reality”.
1. Robe Plissee “La Frontiere de l’Aube” de mousseline et crepe de Chine nuit.
Pleated dress “La Frontiere de l’Aube” in silk chiffon and “nuit” Chine crepe.
Abito plisse “La Frontiere de l’Aube” in mousseline crepe de Chine notte. Heures d’Atelier: 500
2. Robe et cape “Clair de Lune” de mousseline et crepe bleu-noir et nuit.
Dress and cape “Clair de Lune” in silk chiffon and blue-black and “nuit” crepe.
Abito e cappa “Clair de Lune” in mousseline e crepe blue-nero e notte.
3. Robe et cape “Juste avant lanuit” de crepe et cachemire marine.
Dress and cape “Juste avant la Nuit” in crepe and navy blue cashmere.
Abito e cappa “Juste avant la Nuit” in crepe e cachemire marine.
Heures d’Atelier: 650
4. Robe “Prelude a la Nuit” de crepe bleu opium.
Dress “Prelude a la Nuit” in blue opium color crepe.
Abito “Prelude a la Nuit” in crepe blu opium.
5. Jumpsuit “Songe de Nuit” de crepe de laine marine.
Jumpsuit “Songe de Nuit” in navy blue wool crepe.
Jumpsuit “Songe de Nuit” in crepe di lana marine.
6. Robe “Le Bleu des Origines” de crepe marine.
Dress “Le Bleu des Origines” in navy blue crepe.
Abito “Le Bleu des Origines” in crepe marine
7. Robe “Soir et Songe” d’argent et jais.
Dress “Soir et Songe” in silver and jet.
Abito “Soir et Songe” in argento e jais.
8. Blouse et pantalon “Constellation” brodes de cristaux saphir et jais.
Blouse and trousers “Constellation” with crystal sapphire and jet embroideries.
Blusa e pantalone “Constellation” ricamati con cristalli zaffiro e jais.
Heures de broderie: 1200
9. Jumpsuit “Galatee” brode de fils d’or veritable.
Jumpsuit “Galatee” with gold thread embroidery.
Jumpsuit “Galatee” ricamata con fili d’oro.
Heures de broderie: 600
10. Maxi cape smoking “Proserpine” de cachemire bleu nuit.
Maxi tuxedo cape “Proserpine” in midnight blue cashmere.
Maxi cappa smoking “Proserpine” in cachemire blu notte.
11. Robe “Profond Sommeil” de satin nuit.
Dress “Profond Sommeil” in “nuit” satin.
Abito “Profond Sommeil” in satin notte.
12. Robe “Judith” de crepe georgette et velours nuit martele de noir.
Dress “Judith” in crepe georgett and “nuit” velvet “martele de noir”.
Abito “Judith” in crepe georgett e velluto notte, martellato di nero.
Heures de broderie: 500
13. Robe “Spleen” de crepe de Chine nuit.
Dress “Spleen” in “nuit” crepe de Chine.
Abito “Spleen” in crepe de Chine notte.
14. Robe “Salmone” de mousseline fumee d’opium brodee d’argent et d’etain.
Dress “Salome” in silk chiffon “fumee d’opium” with silver and metail embroideries.
Abito “Salome” in mousseline “fumee d’opium” ricamata in argento e metallo.
Heures d’Atelier: 750
15. Robe “Le Bois de Diane” de dentelle the vert et mousseline et ramages.
Dress “Le Bois de Diane” in “the vert” lace and silk chiffon and ramages.
Abito “Le Bois de Diane” in pizzo the vert, mousseline nera e ramages.
Heures d’Atelier: 900
16. Manteau “Poema Paradisiaco” incruste de cachemire”Arbre deVie”.
Coat “Poema Paradisiaco” encrusted with cashmere “Arbre de Vie”
Cappotto “Poema Paradisiaco” incrostato in cachemire Arbre deVie”.
Heures d’Atelier: 640
17. Robe de mikado “Le Chant des Oiseaux”.
Dress in silk mikado “Le Chant des Oiseaux”
Abito in mikado “Le Chant des Oiseaux”
18. Cape et robe “Arbre de Vie” en cachemire et organza.
Cape and dress “Arbre de Vie” in cashmere and organza.
Cappa e abito “Arbre de Vie” in cachemire e organza.
19. Robe “Les Muses” d’organza chair et mousseline ramages.
Dress “Les Muses” in nude organza and silk chiffon ramages.
Abito “Les Muses” in organza color carne e mousseline ramages.
20. Ensemble pantalon “Reves d’Orient” brode or et jais.
Pantsuit ensemble “Reves d’Orient” with gold and jet embroideries.
Ensemble “Reves d’Orient” ricamoto oro e jais.
Broderie: 100 000 tubes de jais sure les pantalons.
21. Blouse et jumpsuit “Les Licornes” brodes d’or.
Blouse and jumpsuit “Les Licornes” with gold embroidery.
Blusa e jumpsuit “Les Licornes” ricamati d’oro.
Heures de broderie: 900
22. Ensemble pantalon “Sphinx” brode de velours et cristaux.
Pantsuit ensemble “Sphinx” with velvet and crystal embroideries.
Ensemble “Sphinx” ricamoto in velluto e cristalli.
Heures de broderie: 650
23. Robe “Les Voix” brodee d’or et jais.
Dress “Les Voix” with gold and jet embroideries.
Abito “Les Voix” ricamoto oro e jais.
24. Tailleur manteau “A Rebours” de laine noire.
Blouse brodee de laine et jais.
Coat suit “A Rebours” in black wool.
Blouse with wool and jet embroideries.
Tailleur manteau “A Rebours” in lana nero.
Blusa ricamata in lana e jais.
450 metres de laine
25. Cape “Aurore” de crepe et mikado noir.
Cape “Aurore” in crepe and black silk mikado.
Cappa “Aurore” in crepe e mikado nero.
26. Robe “Le Secret du Reflet” de crepe plisse et velours encre de Chine.
Dress “Le Secret du Reflet” in pleated crepe and blue “encre de Chine” velvet.
Abito “Le Secret du Reflet” in crepe plisse e velluto “encre de Chine”.
Heures d’Atelier: 400
27. Robe “Bleu sans Lune” de crepe plisse saphir.
Dress “Bleu sans Lune” in sapphire pleated crepe.
Abito “Bleu sans Lune” in crepe plisse zaffiro.
Heures d’Atelier: 700
28. Robe “La Muse Endormie” de velours bleu de nuit.
Dress “La Muse Endormie” in midnight blue velvet.
Abito “La Muse Endormie” in velluto blu notte
Heures d’Atelier: 380
29. Robe “Fleur Mystique” de velours rubis.
Dress “Fleur Mystique” in ruby velvet.
Abito “Fleur Mystique” in velluto rubino.
30. Robe brodee “Voie Lactee” de gazar marine.
Embroidered “Voie Lactee” dress in navy blue gazard.
Abito ricamoto “Voie Lactee” in gazar marine.
250,000 perles brodees
31. Robe “Bethsabee” de broche grenade.
Tissu document original fin du XIXeme siecle.
Dress “Bethsabee” in grenade brocade. Fabric from an original 19th century design.
Abito “Bethsabee” – in broccato granato. Tessuto originale di un documento fine XIX secolo.
32. Tailleur manteau “Le Berceau de Cristal” de broche topaze.
Coat suit “Le Berceau de Cristal” in topaz brocade.
Tailleur Manteau “Le Berceau de Cristal” in broccato topazio.
33. Robe “Sapho” de broche soufre.
Dress “Sapho” in sulphur brocade.
Abito “Sapho” in broccato zolfo.
34. Cape et robe “Chardons de Saturne” de broche et mousseline poussiere.
Cape and dress “Chardons de Saturne” in brocade and dust silk chiffon.
Cappa e abito “Chardons de Saturne” in broccato e mousseline polvere.
Plus de 45 tonalites de fils de soie originaux du XIXeme siecle
35. Robe “Orphee” de broche rose pavot.
Tissu document “Art Nouveau” original du XIXeme siecle.
Dress “Orphee” in pink poppy brocade.
Fabric from an original “Art Nouveau” document from 19th Century.
Abito “Orphee” in broccato rosa papavero.
Tessuto originale “Art Nouveau” di un documento del XIX secolo.
36 Manteau “Il Piacere” de broche rose tango brode d’argent. Robe de mousseline the.
Coat “Il Piacere” in pink tango brocade with silver embroideries.
Dress “The” in silk chiffon.
Cappotto “Il Piacere” in broccato rosa tango ricamato argento.
Abito mousseline the.
Heures d’Atelier: 600
37 Robe “Un Ange Passe” de mousseline poudre
Dress “Un Ange Passe” in poudre silk chiffon.
Abito “Un Ange Passe” in mousseline poudre.
180 metres de volants de mousseline.
38. Robe “Un Hiver Brulant” de mousseline feu.
Dress “Un Hiver Brulant” in fine silk chiffon.
Abito “Un Hiver Brulant” in mousseline fuoco.
Heures d’Atelier: 850
39. Robe “La Cicatrice Interieure” de ziberline pourpre.
Dress “La Cicatrice Interieure” in crimson silk gazar.
Abito “La Cicatrice Interieure” di mikado porpora.
40. Robe “L’Apparition” incrustee de mousseline et crepe de Chine passion.
Dress “L’Apparition” encrusted with silk chiffon and passion China crepe.
Abito “L’Apparition” incrostato in mousseline e crepe de Chine passion.
Heures d’Atelier: 600
41. Robe “La Vent de la Nuit” de mousseline cendre.
Dress “Le Vent de la Nuit” in ash silk chiffon.
Abito “Le Vent de la Nuit” in mousseline cenere.
Heures d’Atelier: 580
42 Mantelet “Chardon de Nuit” et robe de mousseline marine. Tissu original “Chardon” document fin du XIXeme siecle.
Short cape “Chardon de Nuit” and navy blue silk chiffon dress. Original fabric “Chardon” from end 19th Century.
Mantelet “Chardon de Nuit” et robe de mousseline marine. Tissu original “Chardon” document fin du XIXeme siecle.
Short cape “Chardon de Nuit” and navy blue silk chiffon dress. Original fabric “Chardon” from end 19th Century.
Mantelet “Chardon de Nuit” e abito in mousseline marine. Tessute originale “Chardon” fine XIX secolo.
43. Robe “Reverie Nocturne” de mousseline et crepe bleu noir et nuit.
Dress “Reverie Nocturne” in blue-black and “nuit” silk chiffon and crepe.
Abito “Reverie Nocturne” in mousseline e crepe blu-nero e notte.
Heures d’Atelier: 650
44 Robe “Chimeres” brodee d’or et jais.
Dress “Chimeres” with gold and jet embroidery.
Abito “Chimeres” ricamoto oro e jais.
Heures d’Atelier: 850
45 Robe “Jardin de Minuit” de dentelle voilee de mousseline crepuscule
Dress “Jardin de Minuit” in lace lined with “crepuscule” silk chiffon
Abito “Jardin de Minuit” in pizzo doppiato in mousseline crepuscolo
Heures d’Atelier: 700
46 Robe “Les Fleurs du Mal” de broche chardon de nuit. Tissu original “Chardon” document fin du XIXeme siecle.
Dress “Les Fleurs du Mal” in brocade “chardon de nuit”. Original fabric “Chardon” document from end 19th Century.
Abito “Les Fleurs du Mal” in broccato “Chardon de Nuit”. Tessuto originale “Chardon”fine XIX secolo.
47 Robe “Le Coeur Fantome” de velours brode cut out jais.
Dress “Le Coeur Fantome” in velvet with jet cut out embroidery.
Abito “Le Coeur Fantome” in velluto ricamoto cut out jais.
Heures d’Atelier: 700
VALENTINO HAUTE COUTURE COLLECTION
(En Francais..)
Le gout introspectif de la narration. La realite tel un produit de l’imagination. La collection Haute Couture Valentino que Maria Grazia Chiuri et Pierpaolo Piccoli imaginent pour l’Automne/Hiver 2012/13 est nocturne et reflechie. Le luxe se sublime en une affabulation resplendissante. Le bleu definit le paysage mental, profond et dense, oppose au rouge, loin de la compacite du noir, synonyme de possibilite et de pensee creatrice. L’idee du beau en tant que plus haute expression de l’humanite parcourt les vetements. Convaincus que l’evolution de la Maison doit se faire de l’interieur, Maria Grazia Chiuri et Pierpaolo Picciolo realisent leur collection a la fois la plus classique, pour ce qui est des materiaux, des techniques et de l’iconographie, et la plus distante des canons de style. L’esprit du temps entre dans l’atelier pour se figer dans une ligne essentielle, sans effort. La legerete et la densite, la splendeur aveuglante et la preciosite de l’aurore creent un contrepoint dans lequel les contraires s’harmonisent.
Le materiel cede aux raisons de l’imaginaire. Les formes semblent naitre de facon magique autour du corps, comme si la matiere suivait naturellement un dessin purement fantaisiste, sans etre touchee par les ciseaux, en dessinant des silhouettes a l’essentialite archetypique. C’est une virtuosite subtile ignorant toute ostentation qui approche le regard et invite a rever, en ouvrant de nouveaux parcours, en suggerant d’autres perspectives et de nouvelles histoires.
Les elements de la garde-robe deviennent les signes d’une demarche composee et multiforme: robes impalpables et robes du soir theatrales; capes graphiques et robes au dessin net; pantalons droits et chemises adamantines. C’est la ligne qui cree le mouvement, en s’allongeant: la robe a intarsia de mousseline est une cascade liquide qui, l’espace d’un instant, se solidifie autour de la taille, avant de tomber legerement; le tuxedo s’abandonne pour devenir une longue cape portee sur une jupe. L’ecriture inclut les contrastes: la gentillesse devient affirmative dans les robes courtes de brocart au profil architectural et les broderies defils creent des chromatismes tactiles en explorant les symboles du passe. Comme dans un processus alchimique, les matieres, toujours denses, perdent de leur corps et la charmeuse, le brocart, le velours, la mousseline et le cachemire double sont unt veritable pensee. Le bleu nuit, intense et mysterieux, se melange au noir, interrompu par des nuances de brocart rose, jaune et rouge.
La collection celebre l’artisanat traditionnel comme une forme de savoir et de recherches vers de nouvelles aspirations. Car seul l’esprit, guidant la main, peut creer du reel.
VALENTINO HAUTE COUTURE COLLECTION
(In Italiano..)
Il gusto introspettivo della narrazione. La realta come prodotta dell’immaginazione. E una Haute Couture notturna e riflessiva quella che Maria Grazia Chiuri e Pierpaolo Piccioli immaginano per l’Autunno/Inverno 2012/13 di Valentino. Il lusso si sublima in affabulazione splendente. E il blu a definire il paesaggio mentale: profondo e denso, antitetico al rosso, lontano dalla compattezza del nero, sinonimo di possibilita, di pensiero che crea. L’idea del bello come espressione massima di umanita percorre gli abiti. Convinti che l’evoluzione della Maison debba avvenire da dentro, Maria Grazia Chiuri e Pierpaolo Piccioli realizzano la loro collezione piu classica, per materiali, tecnique e inconografia, eppure la piu lontana dai canono. Lo spirito del tempo entra in atelier per rapprendersi in una linea essenziale, senfa sforzo. Leggerezza e densita, splendore abbagliante e preziosismo antelucano creano un contrappunto nel quale le antitesi si conciliano.
Il materiale si piega alle ragioni dell’immaginario. Le forme sembrano nascere magicamente intorno al corpo, quasi la materia seguisse con naturalezza un disegno di pura fantasia senza essere toccata dalle forbici, disegnando silhouette di archetipa essenzialita. E un virtuosismo sottile, mai ostentato, che avvicina lo sguardo e invita a fantasticare, aprendo nuovi scorci, suggerendo altri sfondamenti prospettici, ulteriori narrazioni. Gli elementi del guardaroba diventano i segni di un discorso composito e multiforme: abiti impalpabili e ballgown teatrali: cappe grafiche e vestiti dal disegno netto; pantaloni asciutti e camicie adamantine. E la linea che crea movimento, allungandosi per elevare: l’abito a intarsio di chiffon e una cascate liquida che si solidifica, per un attimo, intorno alla vita, e poi riprendere a fluire; il tuxedo si scioglie diventando una infinita mantella indossata sulla gonna. La Scrittura include contrasti: la gentilezza si fa affermativa negli abiti corti di broccato dal profilo architettonico; ricami di filo creano cromatismi tattilie esplorando simbologie antiche. Come in un processo alchemico, le materie, sempre corpose, perdona peso: charmeuse, broccato, velluto, chiffon, cashmere double sono puro pensiero. Il blu notte, intenso e misterioso, e mescolato al nero e rotto da nuance broccate di rosa, di gallo, di rosso.
Una celebrazione della cultura del fare come forma di sapere, della tensione verso l’alto che non e mai fuga. Perche e solo la mente, guidano la mano, che crea la realta.