BORA AKSU Autumn/Winter 2012/13
“Their beauty could never have been painted if they had they been seen for real”
From the 15,000 pages of adventure and illustration in Henry Darger’s enchanting, but troubled ‘In the Realms of the Unreal’ BORA AKSU chooses the Vivian girls as the heroines of Autumn/Winter 2012. Although brave and virtuous, the girls endured years of sorrow fighting a revolution against the tyrannical universe into which Darger had placed them. From their fantasy world of innocence and strength we draw our scene.
The seemingly incongruous qualities of innocence and secretiveness are brought to life through colour, texture and shape. Soft, feminine and fluid silk jules and georgettes are at the heart of tops and shirting – built upon with layered coats, jackets and capes in heavy cottons and wools. Cashmere prism knits reminiscent of 50′s spinning tops and crocheted trims on skirts and dresses celebrate comforting childhood memories and deflect harsher realities.
The Vivian Girls world of dreams and nightmares is played out through use of colour. Greys and blacks give Aksu’s collection a classic wintery tone, softened by dusty pinks and creams, and shocked by explosions of fuchsia, burnt orange and ruby reds.
The optimistic colours give rise to playful tops and dresses. Shorter-length dresses and skirts are infused with girlish charm in the shape of pleats, drapes and pussy bows for celebratory times of the season.
“I wanted to open a window into a child’s world when we all had innocent but brave eyes” said Aksu. “The way a child can think without boundaries can bring such freedom. I wanted to take the collection in to that naive and innocent state.”
As the colour palette darkens the girls become matriarchal figures, full of strength and leadership, which can be seen in the tailored waistcoats, jackets and capes. The high waisted and floor sweeping skirts add drama and confidence. Their growing maturity is also shown through a collection of leather clutches and totes which form part of a wider collaboration with luxury accessories brand Bracher Emden.
The opposing elements in the collection are bridged by Aksu’s first major foray into print. Born from the discovery of an inspiring old fabric references to deep rich textures of tapestries or 50′s wallpaper were taken. The key element of repeating the same pattern through different textures and materials bring memories of children’s potato prints.
Above all Autumn/Winter 2012 is a celebration of bewitching childish purity and feminine strength in a collection which aims to entrance and inspire.